Hiram Bingham Express: 13 June

This is how train travel used to be, and this how train travel should be. I’m on the 18.00 Hiram Bingham Express from Aguas Calientes to Cuzco. Mum, Dad, and I sit in an elegant booth in the dining car, sipping pisco sours. The train bobs up and down, side to side. There are not sudden or uncomfortable jolts. I feel the starch of the tablecloth under my fingers and look at the gleaming silver cutlery and crystal glasses. I lean back and sink deeper into my plush banquette.

I couldn’t be farther away from the dreary Tube and its gum-ridden seats, sweaty armpits, and discarded crisp packets. This, I think, is civilisation! I smile to myself and savour this moment.